September 26, 2017

Have you ever connected to the soul of the world?

You ever connected to the soul of the world?

Drift with me for a moment to Japan

You may have seen it Glass Love an Andrew Kidman movie. An inspiration For surfing and for life. Touches the soul. The movie speaks deep from the heart, the heartbeat of our Mother Nature.A depth so refreshing and necessary in our world dominated by blag, ego, impressing and being impressed.

Out There by Mark Stone

Drift with me for a moment to Japan, an island country on the west of the Pacific, a neighbour to a huge continental landmass, just like England is on the eastern side of the Atlantic…

The train line cuts through the street – tram like On each side old stores that have peddled their wares for years are still peddling…There are modern convenience stores but the old feel of these provision stores is stronger and more timeless……like any old family shop in the world…. exuding an individual charm of their own all everyday necessities catered for fish, vegetables, candy, rice, coffee from distant shores,  Izakaya too!!…these Japanese style atmospheric pubs serving everything delicious and fresh OUTTHERE

and so all the way back in 1978…which is actually not all that long ago…Steve Pezman and Timothy Leary spoke about one of the great rewards of surfing being the development of a sense of awareness of waves Not just ocean waves which of course surfers begin to know intimately but an increased sensitivity to the whole spectrum of waves of which the universe is so intricately made up of.

Stretching from Fujisawa on the western side to Kamakura to the east there is a short distance electric train which is one of the most famous short train journeys in all of Japan It’s called the Enoden It weaves it’s way… precariously close to the jutting roofs of old style houses giving fleeting glimpses of the ocean down narrow alleys before heading for a stretch of open line giving extended blue Pacific views The area has long been a draw to artists and others and still now in this modern day there exists a vibrant local scene. Artists and others reside all along this coastal stretch passing through Kamakura to distant Hayama whose green mountains form a lush backdrop to the ocean blue. The whiter sand of the more easterly narrow beaches so contrasts with the darkness of the blacker volcanic sand further west towards domineering Fuji-san from whose core it came.

They continued to expand on this notion of increased sensitivity talking of the individual surfer’s relationship to the ocean and therefore their relationship to water….one of the fundamental elements of our planet In turn, this links to the power of the moon and so catalyses a deeper connection with not just earthly phenomena but universal phenomena. As a consequence therefore,a surfer is connecting deeply intimately regularly with a power not normally encountered by ordinary day to day living human beings.

A direct channel to the source of everything that is true and alive at that moment

The surf scene on this coastal stretch is awesome and unique….Longboarders and shortboarders ride side by side….Reef breaks dot the coast and on their day…usually in the warm water summer typhoon season peachy waves reel and delight the locals who ride with such style. The summer feeling is a melange both whacky and wonderful direct trains from Tokyo bringing city ideas and fashions and subcultures to the oceanside to exist side by side with those dwelling here more permanently

for surfers too, this connection to the universe is not just a one off experience. It is a continual practice, an addiction, a drive, a desire, a lifestyle, a destiny. Timothy Leary continued to expand on the notion of surfers becoming mystics, spiritual, getting in touch with the infinite. This is certainly true. Animalistic. Being in the right place at the right time. A direct channel to the source of everything that is true and alive at that moment. Kind of shamanic

The waves – each passing wave – ridden or unridden – washed away my mental clutter – Reionized my body and mind – Peaky beachbreak – fast and jutty and totally crowded but such a harmony exists in this land – this harmony extends out into the ocean …

a true merging of the physical body and the mind with the power and energy and rhythm of nature.

The human is a land animal. Social, political, cultural, moral concepts can all be left behind in the moment of envelopment by the ocean. The true connection between the universe, the body and mind and the ocean.

Shonan, Japan

Like the jewel in the sand just awaiting it’s finding That morning I’d left my house by bicycle I headed to the beach 5 minutes away The light was wonderfully autumnal and the ocean was deep blue and gentle. I found a spot and lost myself in the moment. Sea birds skirted the blue in search of morning fish Two hopeful surfers waited for their waves  peacefully languidly   I sat in that same spot for maybe fifty minutes . When my haste and movement slowed to nothing … only then … only then did the tiny jewel twinkle amidst the thousand other minute particles…
Go slow …. There is so so so much to see…. There is no race.. no urgency.. no destination because the here is already waiting to gift us with wonder!! – to give us the gift of wonder!!

Awesome feeling,  totally chilled and today great waves came to our bay and we remembered the joy of surfing, It is special when something we love so much comes and stokes our world!! And the sun set – dipping from the layered cloud – orange glowing hazily beyond the tips of distant mountains never climbed but so often gazed at  the weekend came and so did the rains ..after such a long time without and as the already darkened day turned to dusk…. the tropical storm from the south pushed up rapidly… thunder cracked deep and lightning illuminated the sky. I surfed the closest spot to my home…the usually totally unsurfable closeouts ran sucky and barreling  Exhilarating on the longboard….

Written in Shonan, Japan….. a fascinating stretch of coastline about 1 hour travel time south of the urban centre of Tokyo….. A wonderful local scene awaits anyone with an interest and intrigue to savour the quite unique (to Japan and the world) local culture. The photographs were taken around the beaches of Kugenuma Kaigan and Shichirigahama.
Thanks to ‘Glass Love’ and all those involved for providing such wonderful inspiration.

Author Mark Stone


  1. Jjbale says:

    I love Glass Love one of my top surf films ever, although the naked bit at the begining means I feel awakward sharing it with my non surfer buddies.

    Love the story and love the site and must check out those beach’s when I am in Japan next


Speak Your Mind


Plugin from the creators of iPod :: More at Plulz Wordpress Plugins